Our performance department has discovered a simple modification that will increase the top speed of a Polaris RZR 5 - 10 mph. from stock. The mod is fairly simple, something most RZR owners who feel comfortable cracking open the clutch case can do in their own garage. So we thought we would pass the tip along - free of charge.

The modification consists of removing a component of the clutch, a plastic spacer which is located between the primary clutch sheaves.  Polaris uses this spacer to limit the top speed of the unit (in combination with the factory set rev-limiter).  By removing this spacer you can increase the travel distance of the primary sheave.  This will increase the distance the belt travels on the primary sheave ultimately increasing the top speed anywhere from 5 to 10 mph.

There has been some argument out there that this may decrease the lifespan of the drive belt, we however believe that this system was initially designed without this simple spacer in mind.  A proper break-in period is recommended at lower speeds for the first 100 miles on a new RZR or after a new belt has been installed to ensure the ultimate belt life.  The few simple steps to removing the plastic spacer requires a clutch compression tool that can be purchased at any local Polaris dealer (part # 8700220) - or call 800.487.3236 and we can ship one out right away.

Step 1. Remove driver and passenger seats.

Step 2. Remove  rear access panel behind seats.

Step 3. Remove the two hex bolts and 5/8ths bolts holding seat base in place.

Step 4. With a screw driver, loosen the clamp that holds the clutch outlet duct to the clutch cover and slide it off.

Step 5. Remove outer clutch cover screws and remove clutch cover.
 
Step 6. Remove drive clutch assembly by removing the clutch retaining bolt that threads into the crankshaft.  (Facing the rear of the vehicle, the drive clutch is the clutch assembly to the left.) To remove the clutch retaining bolt you will need to secure the drive clutch assembly (a.k.a the spider cage) to keep it from spinning.  A wooden hammer handle slipped into the spider cage works well for this.  The clutch assembly is pressed onto the crank shaft and can be fairly easy to knock loose by tapping on it with a rubber hammer.  (This is where the factory service manual would tell you to use a drive clutch puller, which you can order through your local dealer, part # PA-48595.)

Step 7.  Once the drive clutch assembly is removed, take it to a workbench where you can install a spring compression tool.  Once it is clamped down, you can loosen the 6 3/8’s bolts that hold the clutch cover plate.  Once the bolts are removed you can then loosen the spring compression tool (unloading the clutch spring) and then remove the cover plate, use a permanent marker to mark where it is aligned with the drive clutch assembly.  They need to be bolted back together the same way because it is the way they were balanced from the factory.

Step 8.  After the cover plate has been removed you can slide off and then remove the plastic spacer that sat inside it.

Step 9.  With the plastic spacer now removed, slide the clutch spring back on; then, with the clutch spring tool, compress the assembly back together until you can get the 3/8’s bolts started.  Tighten them the rest of the way torqued to 20 ft. pounds.

Step 10.  Reinstall sheave assembly by sliding it back onto the crank shaft; then reinstall the clutch retaining bolt that threads into the crank shaft.  Be sure you have the lock washer, thick washer, and the plastic collar on the way they came off making sure the plastic collar centers in the clutch shaft as you tighten.  This bolt needs to be torqued to 40 ft. pounds.

Good luck with the modification. As always, don't attempt unless you are completely comfortable working on the internals of your clutch and have the proper tools.